Why I dont skimp on truffles

The first time I understood what a truffle could do, I was a commis at Spruce, a Michelin-starred kitchen in San Francisco. Still in high school, I worked for the food and the education.

One December night, we cooked a private dinner for a group of rare book collectors. Risotto was on the menu. My chef julienned nearly half a pound of truffles into the pot, and the scent climbed the stairs and reached the dining room before the plates did.

After service, he sat me down at his desk upstairs with a bowl of that risotto. He shaved another ounce of Périgord black truffle over the top. You could not see the rice.

I have not forgotten it.

That bowl changed how I thought about serving truffles. You can spend a fortune on them and still miss the best part if you're too careful with the shaver. I believe in being generous enough to taste them in every bite, with enough aroma to fill the room.

Years later, working in truffle sourcing, I learned just how much freshness matters to that experience. It's why we're so particular about what we buy and how quickly it reaches your kitchen.

That bowl is still the standard.